Barcelona felt like a homecoming. Our hotel was perfectly situated at the top of La Ramblas and everything looked delightfully familiar.
We had lunch at the market were we did last year. The Pallea was not as good as we remembered. We were planning to dine at the same wonderful restaurant we did last time and well that we did not as eating at the crowded bar would have ruined the fantastic memories. Instead we fell into this lovely intimate meat restaurant were the food was fabulous and a memory to cherish.
We did not plan to stop in Girona on the way to Olot but when we read about the Jewish museum we did. When we arrived we almost regretted the decision. The new Girona looked like Brampton until we discovered the old town.Gorgous. Narrow allies all stone, flower festival beautiful little squares, the Jewish museum the Cathedral and walking for an hour trying to figure out where we parked the car. 
Now that we know that Girona is so beautiful we would have regretted had we not gone there. 
Resting now at Banyoles C’alpa modernly restored cozy hotel and heading out to Olot for dinner at Les Coles. If we find our way back to the hotel we'll tell you all about it tomorrow.
May 15, 2010
Les Scoles is all it was cracked up to be and much more. A futuristic interior decor and ambiance inside a 15th century country stone house fully integrated with manicured gardens with chicken roaming around the yard at eye level with the diners before they end up on the table.
The integrating motif is glass. Huge glass windows literally bringing the beautiful landscape right to your table. The food is exquisite and the service overwhelming. Mom ordered ox tail the first she ever had and morels in white sauce for an appetizer. I ordered roasted eggs and lamb shoulder. The food ranked as high as we ever had in any restaurant and we've been to some of the best in the world. The bread, cheeses and deserts just completed a perfect culinary concert. Mom insisted that I do not ask for the bill when it was late in coming. You know mom's proper instincts. Wrong. In Spain, or at least at Les Scoles, if you do not ask for the bill you'll never get it. It's a custom. Like Bedouin coffee. if you do not turn your cup over it'll keep coming. Now driving back from Olot to Banyoles was a separate adventure. Between the GPS lady, mom as a navigator and me as a driver, I figure one of us is a moron if not all three. A 35 KM drive took us almost two hours with seventeen "recalculating route"s. The GPS lady was ready to quit. Finally in Banyoles we needed a police escort to get us to our hotel. We could have been arrested just the same in that we did not remember the name if the hotel and the address. How in he'll have we been traveling all over the world and managed to get back home every time?May 16, 2010
Boy, did we sleep in this morning, not only did we go to bed after 2:30 but there was a neighborhood party of youngster going on well after 4. Then again there isn't that much else to do in Banyoles.
C’alpa was one of the 2 restaurants reviewed in the New York Time that created this trip. By contrast to Les Coles this was a C plus or maybe minus if you ask mom. When the chef is also the receptionist, bell boy and cook and his wife the waitress and bus girl you must think that it’s not going places. After a coffee at the town square we went right to lunch and we were the only table in the house until 3 when one other couple arrived. Not too many templates today.
We drove to Riput. A medievel village with modern inhabitants - well worth the trip as the photos will attest.
Now we’re headed to Olot and the Les Coles Pavilion.
The Pavilion is an amazing concept. See the photos anything more will be an understatement. Mom is camping at our suite and I’m watching Barca demolish Vilavolid for the La Liga championship. The score is 2:0 at the half.
May 17, 2010
Campione, campione Ole ole ole. Barca won the La Liga championship. The final score 4:0. Messi added 2 text book goals in the second half. He is really a special specimen. But were was he when I really needed him. It's great to see a bar packed with women men and children entire families all fanatically rooting for Barca. Commenting on every play and screaming on every goal. The only downside are the potential consequences of second hand smoking. Everyone smokes as if they never heard the news and I was choking on it. Speaking of impressions the design of bathroom fixtures is modernly exquisite in every hotel we stayed in so far.
European are either slow or lazy or both maybe more so in small towns. Stores open at 10 or later and begin closing for siesta after 12:30 and may or may not open at 5 only to close at 7. No wonder that their economies are in ruins. Productivity? What productivity? Breakfast and I mean breakfast was served at our "suite" in the glass pavilion. We received a picnic basket with fresh baked bread, eggs, cheese, pears, the works. Even a stainless steel pocket knife. This is value selling at it's best. The Olot glass hotel was the highlight so far. I bet you honeymooners will probably never leave the room on account of the warm water indoor pool(bath) . For our 47th we only spent there two hours.
Ceret in the birthplace of Cubism were Pablo Picasso and Mark Chagal used to hang out. Plenty of their original works at the museum of modern art. Quaint old town with Pablo's square smack in the middle.
Well worth the trip including spending an extra hour looking for where we parked our car and this time we even wrote down the address. How do they do it?
Carcassonne was a wonderful surprise. We almost didn't make it as mom "lost" the memory card of the GPS in between the seats. Go look for a black card on a black floor with two blind people. Of course we (mom) did it. It's amazing how cool we are compared to many people we know who would have panicked. Oh, the surprise. our hotel was a country estate with manicured gardens and a 19th century decor. In other words it is a palace.
We had one of the most delicious meals we ever had anywhere. Turns out it's on the list of the 100 best restaurants in the world. We ordered the regional menu featuring the traditional Casoulette - mom will explain what it is and promised to try and make it at home. For a true critic mom gave it a 10. Carcassonne is all about La Cite. 
A medieval fortress (city) that is now a modern city with shops, boutiques , restaurants and even a few inhabitants. It looks like a Walt Disney movie set except it's real, authentic and wonderfully preserved (must see video to believe). This evening we did not get to visit the grand chateau. That's tomorrow morning. One other thing - no photo shops in Carcassonne thus we continue to use our two crappy cameras. Thank you son. I wrote this piece late last night and I swear I hit the send button even though I did not have an Internet connection . Tonight I find out that the piece evaporated into the ether. So there you have it - again.
May 18, 2010
This morning we visited the grand chateau in Carcassonne. Incredibly well preserved and authentic. It was the only fortress to remain intact during whatever war it was then. Crappy photos to prove it. Albi is a 160 KM NW. We (I) drove it in 75 minutes. It's a motorway all the way 2-3 lanes, little traffic and unlimited (effectively) speed. I drove most of the time at 140-160 clicks and getting passed by faster cars. The drive was actually exciting. Never have I driven at such sustained high speed. It keeps your senses sharp and your blood pumping. When we arrived I felt like Michael Schumacher, without the podium the milk and the champaigne (that we had for dinner) I knew it, and I hope that the diabetis gods are looking elsewhere. Mom is cheating everyday. You know the gig "just a little". We rationalize it by burning a lot of calories by walking and climbing stairs every day and by god we do. Albi is the birthplace of Toulouse Lutrec.
It houses a museum dedicated to his paintings, lithographs, posters many that we have seen many years ago in a film about his life and in many other magazines. Many horses, you can see and feel every muscle, dogs and whores and Johns - you know the story. 
The city is dominated by the Cathedral the likes of which we have never seen before mainly as to its dimensions. Hey, we found a photo shop a re-charger and we're back in the decent camera business. You must see the pictures, or may be not, to appreciate this awesomely imposing structure and this time we may even have good pictures to show. 
We literally bumped into a quaint little restaurant with no expectations and only 56 euros later we walked out thrilled with the food, the wine and the service. The French know their food, like their food and enjoy their food and so do we. We talked over dinner on how relaxed travellers we are and maybe that's why we end up mostly with excellent surprises. I'm trying to learn from mom. She is a dare devil but in a good way.
May 19, 2010
From Albi to San Sebastien 400KM - 4 hours. The roads are fantastic. We drove at a sustained speed of 130. Many tolls. More than in Canada and the U.S but then they are maintained better and the left passing lane only makes traffic flow perfectly. The Europeans have figured out a few things that the American oil adicts are not willing to do yet. Lights in the corridor come on by motion sensors. No people - no lights. A swipe card for the door doubling up as the electricity activator. You leave the room - all lights are off. After mid night no TV service. If that's what you came here for - take the first bus home. San Sebastien (Sebastian in Spanish) must be a twin city of Monte Carlo. Exquisite beach and marina. Homes acting like palaces, palaces acting like hotels, chic shops in the old city, wide boulevards with tree lined pedestrian only walkway splitting the boulevard. Even a casino.
But let's face it. San Sebastien is the Mecca of food and food is pretty well a theme on this trip in case you didn't notice. As mom said: we are not here for the topless sunbathers on the beach. We came here for the food. But really it's a dream vacation destination. We are resting now before an early dinner at 9:30.
May 20, 2010
The clumsy concierge at Villa Roso could not get us a reservation in any of the top 5 restaurants in San Senastian. So we went to the old city for Pinchos (the Basque word for Tapas) Great stuff.
The next morning, a 100 KM drive to Bilboa - one hour. The Gugenheim museum is 99.9 percent Frank Ghery's arcitectural marvel and 0.1 percent the exhibits. I discovered that I have two things in common with Frank Ghery. He was actually born in Toronto and lived there for many years. The Gugenheim design has some fish motif. It was explained that when he was a boy his mother took him to the market and he helped her pick the Carps. When they came home his mom let the carps swim in the bath until it was time to cook them. Little Frank used to play with the Carps and became facinated with their movement and fluidity and this motif inspired many of his designs. My mother used to do the same thing. I also played with the carps but instead of being inspired I felt bad for the fish, for the cook and for whoever had to eat them. That's why I'm no Frank Ghery.
I have to say though that the works of Anish Kapoor and Rauschenberg are facinating. To balance the experience we went to the Bellas D'arte musum to see some Goyas El Grecos and a lot of INRI.
We are now having lunch in a quaint restaurant in the old city before we head back to San Sebastian. Tonight we have a reservation at the top restaurant in San Sebastian - we'll let you know tomorrow.
It’s tomorrow now. Remember the name: Arzak. If you’re going to die and go to heaven or to hell and you would like to have the best meal you ever had - Arzak in San Sebastian is your place. We thought that Les Coles in Olot could not be topped and for ambiance it can't. But as far as taste and presentation is concerned Arzak is tops. Tomorrow Madrid by train 5 hours. Stay tuned it's football time now. Will he or won't he sell the tickets?
May 21, 2010
We arrived in Madrid right in the middle of rush hour - 2:15. You see, Madrid businesses shut down for the weekend at 2. Only those who left for lunch at 12:30 never to return or those who preferred to "work from home" are not on the road. They are the same people who stayed out last night tilll 2 and may or may not have shown at the office at 10. This is productivity Spanish style. Thank goodness that we changed our plans and took ( a 5.5 hours milk run) a train from San Senastian or we would still be circling Madrid looking for our hotel GPS or not. Rested we went for a walk. Madrid is a lot more old style elegant and dignified compared to Barcelona. Lots of wide shaded pedestrian boulevards, large squares or “roundabouts” with waterfalls, statues and monuments. We went to the Reina Sofia museum. Mom wanted to see Picasso's famous Gernika. (I saw it before).
We saw many Dali’s and Picasso's. Based on his life story where did he find the time to create so many works?We crashed at the hotel. The concierge is trying (or is he) to sell our tickets for the going price of 1250 Euros. Will he or won't he? I could probably sell it on the street but mom won't let me. Madrid is fabulous to visit but who needs permanent residence albeit rent free in a Madrid jail? What a life? The worst that can happen tomorrow is that we will get to see the year's biggest football match at the Bernabeu. We'll see. I wrote this letter to the Spanish Consul in Toronto but mom wouldn’t let me send it. What do you think?
Dear Consul
I have just returned from a wonderful trip to Northern Spain and spent the last few days in Madrid. I don't need to tell you that Spain and Madrid are wonderful tourist destinations.
But I do have to tell you that Spain and especially Madrid are not tourist friendly. With the lackluster somewhat disgruntled attitude of service personnel from hotel clerks to police officers to taxi drivers and the list goes on, tourists feel like intruders rather than guests. People especially in the service sector appear to be disinterested in their jobs. Stores do not open when they say and are quick to close ahead of any predictable time. The tourist impression is that people don't care and don't want to be bothered. Finally if Madrid in particular is to become a global destination, knowledge of basic English by taxi drivers, police officers, tourist information, hotel staff is a must. I would quit my job to open up a basic "English for Spaniards who care to grow the tourist industry" school. Tourists are foreigners and it is for Spaniards to decide if for no other than selfish economical reasons if they are to be welcome in Spain and return and recommend it to their friends.
May 22, 2010
Today we indeed did Madrid. From the palace and Plaza del Mayor and Puerte del Sol and La Latina - the works. Bayren fans are more noticeable then Inter and surprisingly more boisterous. However the atmosphere while dominated by fans, flags, chants is nothing compared to 40,000 Liverpoolians in Istanbul. So we are going to the match. The first thing that struck us were our seats. 5 rows from field level just center side of the 18 yard line. In front of us mainly the photographers. The atmosphere is intense and the Bayren fans are more than holding their own against Inter.
Mom is loving it. If we did Madrid Inter did Bayren. A well deserved decisive 2:0 win - never in doubt. Even mom said why do they keep passing the ball laterally and backwards all the time? Just about sums it up. I hate to admit but I developed respect for the iron curtain defense of Inter and it's highly effective counter attack. Both coaches had the script. Inter executed and wanted it more. Bayren stuck to it's game plan even when it was clear that it was not going to work. Only Roben on the right was trying his best and in the last 20 minutes they only played him. Olich who did in Manchester United was pathetic and Close might as well not have dressed up. Without Ribery on the left and even with him they did not had a chace, Mourinho wins again!
May 23, 2010
Prado. If you are not saturated after two hours you are a classic art fanatic or an elitist snob. We were out in just over two hours. You decide. The Rietro Park is just that. It ain't no Central Park. The restaurant near the Prado was expensive and mediocre at best. This was a typical tourist trap day. When in Madrid you have to have a 20/20 visiion or have your glasses with you at all times, you have to be a natural map reader and have the ability to pronounce the names of the streets or points of interest in a fake but understandable Spanish accent (you would think that we are staying in Gran Via but you're wrong. Try Gambia) Better than all of the above is if you speak fluent Spanish. You miss one of the
above and you're on your own and probably lost. Spiko no ingleso. Try the subway without any of the above and you're still there as we speak. Fun city. Tomorrow Toledo. The book says: expect to be lost. That's our specialty. Here we come Toledo.
May 24, 2010
Now that's what an old city should look and feel like: Cobblestone narrow winding roads, small shops, bars, lots of historical monuments. An old synagogue now run by nuns since they drove all the Jews out.
Whoever said that exercise especially walking is good for you should come to Toledo and decide for themselves. Exhausting is more like it but altogether wonderful.
This is our last tourist destination on our original trip. Tomorrow we are (sort of) headed to the real world through Amsterdam. Who said that the economy is in bad shape over here. Every time I went to a bank machine and I visited too many, they always had the money. Except the last one had a message in Spanish saying " are you sure? Do you realize what you're doing?. If so press: Continue”. I pressed.
This vacation was incredibly wonderful. Everything went according to plan and the few surprises were all great. This trip was all about Food, Art, Romance and Temptation and just like the acronym it feels great while it lasts and it stinks when it’s over. If you didn't get it you should take the trip yourself. Highly recommended.
No comments:
Post a Comment